Hard and soft (directional and diffused) light. Soft and hard light

10.10.2019

This article will discuss the concepts of “hard” and “soft” light, the features of their production and scope of application.

Light is the most important component in photography and the main tool of the photographer. In most cases, the quality of photographs greatly depends on the photographer's understanding and ability to create the necessary lighting. Light has many characteristics - brightness, temperature, wavelength... Among photographers you can often hear the terms “hard” and “soft” light, especially in portrait photography, how can this be?, because you won’t be able to touch the light. Let's find out!

The concepts of “hard” and “soft” light are relative and the same light source, in different shooting conditions, can be both hard and soft. On what parameters then does the light depend? Let's look at some illustrative examples made on 3D models.

The main difference between hard light and soft light is the transition gradient between light and shadow areas. If you look at the places circled in red, you will see that on the face on the left the illuminated part ends abruptly and turns into shadow, while on the face on the right the transition from the light to the shadow area is smoother.

Now let's move from the three-dimensional model to the real one:

In a photo with hard light, the shadow turned out to be clearly defined, with sharp boundaries, while in a photo with soft light, the shadow is more blurry and the transition from light to dark (shadow) is much softer and almost unnoticeable. As you may have noticed, photography with soft light looks more attractive, so it is believed that portraits using soft light as the main source look better (if you are photographing a girl, shoot with soft light).

Now let's look at hard and soft light using the example of a baseball.

I hope you can easily determine in which case the photo was taken with hard light and in which with soft light (above - hard light, below - soft light).

Factors affecting the type of light

The size of the light source relative to the size of the object being photographed;

The distance from the light source to the subject.

If you photograph a person's face in the light of an incandescent light bulb, the light will turn out to be harsh because the light bulb is smaller than the person's face. The sun on a clear day is also a harsh light source (and a big problem for the photographer), even despite its enormous size, since it is very far away relative to the subject being photographed.

If the sky is overcast, the light will be soft, since sunlight passing through the clouds will be scattered. For the size of the light source in this case, we will no longer take the sun as such, but the clouds that scatter directed sunlight. Clouds are much smaller than the surface of the sun, but are much closer to the subject (which is why photographers rejoice when it's cloudy outside).

Hard light can be used for textured “male portraits”, as well as in cases where it is necessary to emphasize the texture and relief of the subject.

The use of hard light brought out the texture of the skin, and the deep shadows gave the photos more contrast and drama. Now let's see what happens if we photograph a girl with hard light.

I took this photo when I was just starting to take up photography, using one light source - a flash, which conveyed the texture of the stone wall well, but the shadows on the girl’s face do not look very beautiful (if you are a beginner photographer, try to avoid taking portraits of girls with hard light, they you won't be forgiven for this =)

In the following photos, hard light helped highlight the texture of the jewelry and cosmetics, as well as show off the texture of the leather of the handbag.

But what to do if using hard light is not desirable, how to soften it?

Ways to soften the light

- light scattering. Any translucent object is suitable for this; place it between the subject and the light source. Photographers use umbrellas for light and reflection, softboxes, octaboxes, diffusers (sold together with reflectors), but it can also be a sheet, a curtain, anything that can diffuse light;

- light reflection. Position your subject so that only reflected light hits it. This is why photographers shoot indoors by pointing the flash at the ceiling.

It must be taken into account that when softening the light by scattering or reflection, a significant part of it is lost and the illumination of the subject will decrease, as a result of which it is necessary to make adjustments to the shooting parameters (increase the power of the light source or increase the shutter speed, open the aperture, increase ISO).

What features does soft light have? In contrast to hard, it hides flaws and defects of the surface being removed well, makes the model’s skin more attractive, and makes the transition between the shadow and light areas more invisible.

And finally, examples of our photographs with soft light:

Good luck with your shots!

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In the new series of the “Shoot Like a Pro” column, we took a closer look at this side of the art of photography, such as lighting, and told us how to get more balanced and beautiful pictures. You will learn about the nature and structure of light and how the quality of lighting affects the quality of photographs.

In photography, light is more than just a physical phenomenon - it is the key to everything: appearance, mood, atmosphere. The direction of the light flow will determine the perception of objects in the frame, their shape and texture. And the color and harshness of light can completely change a photograph.

Light is one of the most important parts of photography, and in this tutorial we'll look at how simple tricks and techniques can be guaranteed to improve the quality of your photos.

You will also learn how to change the nature and contrast of lighting using diffusers and reflectors. You will understand that there is nothing difficult in mastering lighting techniques.

Understanding the Nature of Light

There are three main characteristics of light that affect the look of a photograph: the direction of the light, its color, and how hard or soft it is.

It is easier to recognize hard light from shadows than from highlights. Harsh, direct light produces well-defined and deep shadows, while shadow edges from more diffuse light appear soft and less defined.

The position of the shadow areas indicates where the light source is located. Shadows, as we know, lie on the opposite side of the object relative to the flow of light.

Position of light sources

The size of the light source plays an important role; it determines how soft or hard the light is. A small source produces hard, directional light, while a large source produces soft light.

But the hardness of light depends not only on the size of the source, but also on the distance from it to the subject. The Sun is a great example. The Sun itself is enormous in size, but it is so far from us that relative to the subject it turns into a tiny source of light.

The direction of the light and the shadows it creates will affect the texture and shape of the subject. Light directed from or behind the camera will create flat lighting and create shadows directly behind the subject. This type of lighting is suitable if you are trying to capture small details in a photo, but then you will not be able to fully display the texture and shape of the subject.

You will get much more interesting results by placing the light source on one side of the subject. This type of lighting is called side lighting. With its help, shadows are formed on the side of the object opposite to the light source, the shadows draw the outline and make the texture more obvious.

When photographing outdoors at midday, you will be faced with downward lighting (as the Sun is at its highest at this time). With this direction of light, the best results are often not obtained, especially for portrait photography: the model’s eyes will be in shadow, and shadows will also fall under the nose and chin.

How does white balance affect lighting?

Along with the direction of light and its harshness, the color of the light coming from the source also affects the appearance of photographs and their mood. This change in light is known as color temperature. Your camera has white balance settings to correct this.

The color temperature of light is measured on the Kelvin scale. The lower the color temperature, the more red the color of the light will be, and at higher temperatures the blue color will predominate.

White balance settings are necessary to achieve the most natural colors possible. However, deliberately setting the wrong balance can make the photo warmer or colder.

How to take control of the light

With a basic technique in place, you can start experimenting with different light setups. Place the light source in different positions relative to the subject and watch how this or that position is reflected in the image and perception of the subject. To avoid blur due to shaking, shoot at fast shutter speeds, for this you will have to set the ISO to high, around 800-1600.

Front light

By placing a light source directly behind the camera and pointing it at your subject, you will get flat light. You will get exactly the same effect when shooting in sunlight, standing with your back to the sun, or using the built-in flash.

Side light

By moving the light source to the side relative to the subject, you will get much more interesting results, as this light will make the outlines and texture more obvious.

Rear light

Placing the source behind the subject will give a completely different result. This light will illuminate the object from all sides, thereby creating an outline. This type of lighting helps create atmospheric photos.

A few simple ways to improve the lighting for your photos

In this section, we'll look at some simple, affordable ways to help you improve the light in your photos.

Of course, it is impossible to control the light when shooting landscapes, but if we are shooting portraits, objects or close-ups against the backdrop of a landscape, then why not contribute to the formation of light.

There are many different ways in which you can control lighting, especially in directed, hard light situations.

As we explained earlier, to get soft, diffused light, you need to use a light source with a surface area many times larger than the surface of the subject. If you move the light source closer to the subject, the light will be softer, but often this movement is difficult or even impossible.

Without using a diffuser

If you are photographing a small subject in sunlight, use a diffuser; it must be installed in the path of the light flow. It will diffuse the light, making the shadows softer.

It is not necessary to use expensive equipment; this effect can be achieved using improvised means: for example, two sheets of paper glued together or a piece of white fabric.

Using a diffuser

Use a reflector to fill in the shadows.

Without using a reflector

Using a reflector or reflector will also help soften the contrast in bright sunlight. Light hitting the surface of the reflector is reflected and illuminates shadow areas.

Unlike a diffuser, a reflector does not soften the light, but only smoothes out the contrast between light and shadow areas.

Position the reflector disk against the light source and then choose the right angle to illuminate the subject to its advantage.

Using a reflector

Today you can find many budget reflectors of various sizes; they also differ in coating color and material. For example, white matte reflectors produce a soft light, while glossy surfaces, which are more reflective, produce a correspondingly harsher light. A gold reflector will make the shadows warmer.

Use flash

An alternative method for highlighting shadow areas in directional sunlight is to use a flash.

For subjects close to the camera, the built-in flash is also ideal for this purpose. But if the object is at a distance of more than two meters, then in this case it is necessary to use a more powerful lighting device.

An easy way to get rid of deep shadows

Enable TTL flash control mode

Built-in TTL function helps you create fill light. If you are using an external flash, make sure it is in TTL mode.

Check exposure

Take a test shot to make sure the flash has enough power to illuminate your subject. If the subject is still poorly lit, move closer.

Reduce flash power

If your subject appears too bright relative to the background, then you can use flash compensation for a more natural result. Set it to a negative value, for example -1.

How to make the most of natural light

In this subsection, we'll talk about natural light and how to make the most of it.

When shooting landscapes or buildings, it is not possible to control the light in any way; here everything depends entirely on Mother Nature.

One way or another, you can choose the direction of the light by changing the shooting angle. Also, depending on the time of day and weather conditions, you can get completely different results.

A classic of the genre for shooting stage images is the so-called golden hour. This is the name given to the short period of time immediately after dawn and before sunset. At this hour the Sun is low, and the light comes from the side.

Please note that the lower the Sun sets, the lower the color temperature becomes and the warmer the photos turn out.

Taking pictures against the light

One of the most striking and impressive effects that can be created by playing with light is backlighting. Photos in this lighting take on a special look.

By placing the light source behind the subject, you can go two ways: set the exposure using the background of the photo as a basis, in which case you will get an underexposed subject in the form of a silhouette in the photo. The second option is to expose the subject you are shooting, then you will get a blown-out background, which will create the effect of a high-key photograph.

When shooting in backlit conditions, try not to look directly at the Sun through the viewfinder. Use Live View to frame your shot.

Of course, each of you was able to see a picturesque sunset with your own eyes, but how often did you have a camera with you? If you can answer “often,” consider yourself lucky.

The key to successful photography in natural light is advance planning, familiarization with the weather forecast and knowledge of the characteristics of light that depend on the position of the Sun in the sky.

Predicting the behavior of natural light

Of course, no one has canceled the old-fashioned methods; if you wish, you can use a solar compass and maps. But there are many dedicated gadget apps that can handle this task and save you time, such as Photographer’s Ephemeris or Sunseeker.

Apps like these will allow you to track the position of the Sun anytime, anywhere. But don’t forget about changeable weather conditions, find out in advance whether it will be cloudy or sunny on the day of shooting.

Comparing the left and right photographs: Choose for yourself in what light to photograph. In the first picture the light is backlit, in the second the light source is located behind the photographer.

The top photo was taken just after dawn, the light is lateral and the colors are warm. The bottom photo was taken 30 minutes later. Notice how the color temperature has changed: the photo is much cooler than the previous one.

Taking photographs in backlit directional light

For pictures taken in backlit conditions, correct exposure is vital.

Avoid glare

A lens hood screwed onto the camera lens will help get rid of glare. If the lens hood does not help, then you can protect the lens from light streams by covering it with your hand or a piece of paper.

Exposure for silhouette photography

To focus attention on the background and depict the main subject in the frame as a silhouette, use the exposure compensation function. As a rule, even a value of -1 is quite enough to create a silhouette effect.

Exposing the subject

If you want to show more detail of the subject in the foreground of the photo, then you will have to increase the exposure. To do this, you can again use exposure compensation, but this time bring it to a value of +1. If the photo turns out too dark, increase the value to +2.

Low-light photography

In this subsection, we'll look at the most useful settings for low-light photography.

Shooting in low light levels is difficult and you have to face many difficulties. Take for example shooting in a dimly lit building or during twilight or at night.

Getting the correct exposure when photographing in automatic mode is difficult, and perhaps impossible. Use manual mode.

Under such conditions, problems with focusing and white balance also arise, however, the result will fully justify all your efforts.

Low Light Exposure

When shooting in low-light conditions, you're bound to encounter exposure issues, especially if you're using one of the auto-metering modes.

By switching to manual mode, you will get more predictable results.

If the subject mostly contains dark tones, then most likely the camera will overexpose the frame in automatic mode. This will be especially noticeable in shadow areas, which will be displayed in too much detail.

To judge your exposure correctly, take a test shot and check the histogram. If there is a gap on the left side of the graph, then the photo is overexposed, which means you need to either lower the ISO value, shorten the shutter speed, or close the aperture.

When it comes to shooting in low light, you have a few options. It depends on what purposes you need to use a fast shutter speed: if you want to capture some kind of fast process, then you cannot do without a short shutter speed, but if you have the opportunity to use a tripod to avoid camera shake, and the subject of the photograph allows you to use long exposure, then why not?

Depending on the shutter speed, change the ISO value. In low light conditions and with short shutter speeds, set your ISO to at least 800. For long shutter speeds, you can reduce your ISO to 200 for better photo quality.

We take photographs at dusk and in absolute darkness

Twilight

Soft and cold light, characteristic of a short period of time before dawn and immediately after sunset, creates excellent conditions for shooting.

It is worth taking photographs while there are still visible colors and details in the sky, this means that you do not have to set very long shutter speeds.

Most of the light at this time will be reflected from the sky, so cool tones will prevail, and the light itself will be soft and diffused. Light levels during twilight are low, making this a great time to master long shutter speed techniques. Don't forget about a tripod and remote shutter release techniques.

Night landscapes

There are many interesting and beautiful methods for illumination at night, ranging from light emanating from lampposts or busy roads to Moonlight.

A mixture of bright lights of the night city and deep shadows - what could be better?

Suppress noise

Don't forget to turn on the noise reduction function on your camera when shooting at long exposures at night. Typically, this function works at shutter speeds longer than 5 seconds.

How to take handheld photographs in low light conditions

In the photo below we show the settings for handheld shooting in low light conditions

Installing ISO

Set your ISO to a high value, at least 800, then take a test shot at the shutter speed you need to get the exposure correct. If the shutter speed is still too slow and your photos are blurry, then increase the ISO to 1600 or even 3200 and reduce the shutter speed.

Keep the camera steady

If your camera or lens has image stabilization, be sure to use it to avoid blurring due to camera shake. But don't expect motion blur to be reduced either.

Focusing

If you are using autofocus, make sure you select the center focus point. On most cameras it gives the most accurate results in poor lighting conditions.

How to Cope with Difficult Lighting Conditions with Flash

In the last section of this tutorial, we'll go over some techniques that will help you control your lighting with flash.

Photo taken using built-in flash

Unlike other light sources, when working with which you can immediately see the effect of special equipment, such as diffusers and reflectors, with flash the situation is more complicated. You won't see the results until you take the photo.

Don't be afraid of flash, especially if you know how the direction of natural light affects your photography.

The light from any flash will be slightly harder than the light coming from, for example, a reading lamp. For this reason, it is necessary to take at least a few test shots with your equipment. But, nevertheless, the basic laws of the direction of light and its qualitative changes remain the same, regardless of the light sources used.

Photo taken using external flash

The results you'll get if you point the flash directly at your subject are guaranteed to put you off this lighting method. In this case, the flash acts as a tiny, pinpoint light source that produces harsh, hard, high-contrast light.

Such light should be softened and the surface of the source should be made larger compared to the subject being photographed.

Soften the flash light

There are a number of special accessories that can help you soften the light from your flash. First, let's highlight softboxes and umbrellas, which soften the light and make the area of the light source much larger.

Next, you should pay attention to special diffusers that are attached directly to the built-in flash. Such a diffuser distributes light throughout the room, the light is reflected on the surface of the room and illuminates the object.

Remember that it is the size of the light source relative to the subject that determines what qualities the light will have: whether it will be hard or soft for a particular subject.

Even when using a softbox or umbrella, remember this: the further the source is from the subject, the harder the light; the closer, the softer the light.

External flash

For more control over lighting, it is of course better to use an external flash rather than a built-in one.

How to use a wireless trigger

Install the flash

Most receivers have a special tripod mount, so you can attach it to a regular tripod for convenience. If you need soft light, you should also install a flash diffuser or softbox.

Determine flash power

Set the flash to manual mode, and then use the flash output control function, setting the output to match the distance from the subject to the flash.

Check exposure

Then take a few test shots to adjust the exposure. If the photo turns out to be overexposed, then reduce the aperture and, conversely, increase it if the photos are too dark.

In this article we will look at concepts often found in the description of lighting sources - soft and hard light. Depending on the tasks. that the photographer sets for himself, his choice may be different.

Let's start with hard light. Hard light, as a rule, is formed from a point source and is directional. Examples of hard light sources include: the sun in a clear sky at midday, a spotlight, a studio flash with a small reflector at a great distance from the subject.

Hard light forms sharp and deep shadows, the area of transition from light to shadow (tonal transition) is very small, in other words, the border between light and shadow is sharp. This lighting, when directed at an angle, conveys surface character and texture very well, but at the same time strongly emphasizes wrinkles or uneven skin. Portraits with hard light tend to be dramatic and bright.

But despite this, many photographers avoid working with hard light, since it requires certain skills, the ability to “see light” and very precise installation and adjustment of light. The slightest turn of the head in one direction or another leads to a strong change, and often to the destruction of a beautiful cut-off pattern. Russian photographers who are masters of using hard lighting are Oleg Tityaev and Ilya Rashap.

Now let's move on to soft light. Soft light- this is not necessarily diffused light, as is sometimes claimed. This interpretation of soft lighting is incomplete. The following statement would be more correct: the softness or hardness of lighting is determined by the relative size of the light source in comparison with the subject, as well as the distance to the subject.

Based on this, a soft light source can also produce harder lighting if the distance between it and the subject is increased so much that the distance is much greater than the size of the source. Then the source will become close to a point.

How to get a source of soft lighting? After all, a flash is practically a point source!

Exit - make the radiation area larger, that is, distribute the luminous flux over a large surface. Please note that the direction of the light will remain the same! Technically, this is done by reflecting light from a large surface (reflective umbrella, shooting with an on-camera flash aimed at the ceiling), or by passing light through a large area of scattering material (softbox, scream panel, frost frame). Examples of natural sources of soft light are the sky on cloudy days, as well as a large window that does not receive direct sunlight.

The image obtained using a soft light source has more extended boundaries of transitions from light to shadow, that is, wider tonal transitions. This lighting conceals the texture of the surface, making skin irregularities and defects less noticeable in a portrait photograph.

Many people think that to shoot a portrait with soft lighting you must have studio equipment. This is not a mandatory condition at all. A good portrait with soft lighting can be shot using light from a window.

This article will discuss the concepts of “hard” and “soft” light, the features of their production and scope of application.

Now let's move from the three-dimensional model to the real one:

Now let's look at hard and soft light using the example of a baseball.

I hope you can easily determine in which case the photo was taken with hard light and in which with soft light (above - hard light, below - soft light).

Factors affecting the type of light

The size of the light source relative to the size of the object being photographed;

The distance from the light source to the subject.

Hard light can be used for textured “male portraits”, as well as in cases where it is necessary to emphasize the texture and relief of the subject.

The use of hard light brought out the texture of the skin, and the deep shadows gave the photos more contrast and drama. Now let's see what happens if we photograph a girl with hard light.

In the following photos, hard light helped highlight the texture of the jewelry and cosmetics, as well as show off the texture of the leather of the handbag.

But what to do if using hard light is not desirable, how to soften it?

Ways to soften the light

- light reflection. Position your subject so that only reflected light hits it. This is why photographers shoot indoors by pointing the flash at the ceiling.

And finally, examples of our photographs with soft light:

Today we present to you exceptional recommendations for transforming your living space using an unparalleled lighting system that fills the environment with a soft, diffused glow.

This type of illumination is of great importance for the decor of apartments. Before installing it in your home, you should pay attention to tips and recommendations that will help you achieve a spectacular interior appearance.

Do you like warm or cool light? Lighting has a specific color temperature, which is measured in degrees Kelvin (K). Simply put, it indicates what kind of radiance the living space is filled with - yellow or blue.

The choice of a specific type of light bulb depends on the effect you want to achieve when decorating your home:

2,700 K – warm and soft;
2,900 – 3,200 K – golden;
3,500 K – neutral;
4,000 K – imitation of natural daytime radiation;
5,000 K – cold.

Decide on your preferences. If you want to create a rich and warm atmosphere in your apartment or decorate it with works of traditional art, then illumination that imitates candles is the ideal solution. In addition, a modern interior can be perfectly complemented by a cool color temperature.

Daylight creates a warm and cozy atmosphere in the decoration.

Living room by Mark English Architects, AIA

2.	Arrange panoramic window decor.

A view of the natural surroundings will not only wonderfully transform the decoration of the apartment, but also fill it with dazzling sunlight.

Tip: Add windows on the south side of a quaint home to maximize interior light.

Guest salon by Studio Schicketanz

Mirrors will allow you not only to visually increase the area of your apartment, but will also fill the room with dazzling radiance and warmth.

Design by Judith Taylor Designs

In a room with one small window, use a snow-white tint palette. Mirrors on the sides of the window opening will also maximize natural light.

Tip: Buy home decor paint that is highly reflective. Light, shiny shades absorb more shine and make the room appear larger.

Design by Green Canopy Homes

Such illumination will not only bring a soft, diffused glow into the decoration, but will also fill the atmosphere with incredible comfort and warmth.

Marine themed living room by Darci Goodman Design

6.	Consider age and health factors.

As people age, they become more sensitive to light, which allows them to see fine details. Table lamps can create a warm and laconic atmosphere, which is perfect for a calm and relaxing holiday.”]

Many people are sensitive to lighting for other reasons: migraines, epilepsy, taking medications.

Tip: use special devices to adjust the shine. Dimmers will help create a unique and incomparable illumination system with different functional areas and illumination levels.

Kitchen from Venegas and Company

Tip: Use multiple light sources to add personality to your apartment space.

Guest lounge by Studio William Hefner

We've presented eight ways to create a stunning ambient lighting system that can infuse the atmosphere with tenderness and creativity.

Did you like these decor ideas from talented artists? Share your thoughts with us in the comments below...