How to change strings on a classical electric guitar. How to properly change strings on an acoustic guitar? Getting the perfect sound

In general, I quite often come across complaints from guitarists that their guitars quickly go out of tune and don’t hold up.

Many people make mistakes with their inexpensive guitars and cheap accessories, without even suspecting that the guitar does not stay in tune, not because of the accessories.

It's all about setting the strings correctly on the guitar!

Replacing strings on a guitar is a trivial process only at first glance, but there are also some tricks here.

At the very least, learning how to properly set or change guitar strings can make your life a lot easier.

Step 1:

Once you have secured it, bring it up to the headstock and pass it through the peg hole.

Step 2:

Leave a small amount of string to wrap around the peg and lightly stretch the string toward the headstock. Try not to jerk the string back and forth - it may bend and break.

Step 3:

Bend the end of the string towards the center of the headstock and pass it under the string.

Step 4:

While maintaining tension on the string, wrap the string around itself, making a sort of “lock.” Try to keep the string taut, this will prevent the string from deforming and will help it to be installed correctly.

Step 5:

While holding the string under tension, begin turning the peg. The string should clamp itself. The string must be wound down the peg shaft to increase its angle relative to the nut.

Final result:

This kind of “lock” allows you to ensure that the guitar will be out of tune much less.

So now you know how to properly change strings on a guitar. =)

UPD: Well, and visual videos:

Video: How to change strings on an electric guitar

Video: How to change strings on an acoustic guitar

Video: How to change strings on a classical guitar

Additions, corrections, comments are welcome. Friends, write in comments.

Greetings to all those who often have to tune their guitar, which every time loses tune after playing your favorite melodies and compositions. Or those who first encountered the need - change strings.

Anything can happen, but often the cause is incorrect installation of the strings. At first glance the process replacing strings with may seem banal and primitive. In fact, it has its own tricks.

To do this you need to take only 7 steps (actions).

Step-I: Remove the buttons from the holes that are located on the guitar stand. I will show the example of the 4th string, so I will only take out one.

• If you don’t have a tenacious tool at hand, you can remove them using any coin

Step-II: We insert the string into the hole, close it with the button and press it well so that it does not squeeze out when the string is pulled.

Step III: We bring the free end of the string to the head of the guitar neck and insert it into the hole of the desired peg.

Step-IV: Having previously left a small margin of length for winding onto the peg, bend and bring (counterclockwise) the end of the string to the center of the headstock and place it under the string - where it entered the hole of the peg.

Step-V: Having previously created tension on both ends of the string, move the free one up and then in the opposite direction above the string. You should get a loop - a “lock”.

Step-VI: While continuing to create tension - without allowing the loop to slip off the peg, begin to rotate it counter-clockwise, thereby tensioning the entire length of the string. Thanks to the “lock”, it should press itself and then you won’t have to hold it.

Step-VII: here we come to the final action. Pull the string and check that there are approximately 2-3 turns on the peg. No less and no more.

I'm sure you guessed that the guitar often goes out of tune if the strings are wound on pegs without this very “lock”, because When played, they begin to weaken, even with a large number of turns. And of course, before you finally tighten each string, do not forget to place it in the desired cutout of the nut.

Every beginning guitarist sooner or later asks the question of how to change the strings on a guitar? They are usually changed when the sound loses its brightness and (or) they no longer stay in tune. If one string breaks, it is better to change everything, because the sound of the new one will be different from the rest. Amateur guitarists usually change them once every three months, professionals - at least once a month. To determine when this time has come, you need to listen to the sound of the guitar - the old strings sound dull.

If the same string constantly breaks, and your playing style is not aggressive, then you should check all places where it comes into contact with the guitar for smoothness. If your guitar often goes out of tune, it may be because the guitar strings are not installed correctly. Eliminate any unevenness and only then proceed with installation.

Before you change the strings on your guitar, you need, of course, to decide what type of strings you need. The choice of strings depends on what style you will play. For playing with fingerpicking or with tremolo, vibrato and fast passages, nylon ones are better suited. When playing with a strike, when you need the sound of all six strings at the same time, the more sonorous metal ones win.

So, let's look at the process itself, how to change the strings on a guitar. For this, it is desirable, but not necessary, to have: side cutters, a polishing cloth, and a pinwheel for pegs. Nippers are needed to cut off the excess part of the string, since the shorter it is, the less it is out of tune. The spinner greatly speeds up the stringing process.

While tightening the string, periodically pull it away from the neck, as a guitar with stretched strings will not go out of tune for a long time. Don't remove all the old strings at once, change them one by one to avoid problems with the truss rod. Remove them carefully to avoid damaging the body of the guitar.

Once you have threaded the string through the hole in the bridge, feed it through the hole of the peg, leave a small margin for winding, and cut the rest with wire cutters. The reserve should be enough for 2-3 turns. Bend 1-2 cm of the end of the string and begin to wind it, twisting the peg and lifting it up perpendicular to the neck. The string around the peg should form a certain kind of lock. Thus, she seems to be clamping down on herself.

Start with the lightest string, gradually moving to the bass strings. All the pegs need to be turned in the same direction so that you don’t get confused later when tuning the guitar. The outer strings are pulled onto the pegs closest to the soundboard, 2 and 5 - on the middle pegs, 3 and 4 - on the far ones. Do not make sudden movements when pulling the string, so as not to break it completely. Remember that if you know how to change guitar strings correctly, you will avoid many problems.

Installing strings on an electric guitar is somewhat different from a similar process on an acoustic. The main difference is one: in order to insert the strings through the bridge, you need to remove the back cover of the guitar using a screwdriver.

Next, let's start tuning the guitar. This should not be done with particular precision, since strings (especially nylon) tend to stretch; this process lasts about two days. Tuning new nylon strings at first turns into a chore: when you tune the bass strings, the thin strings go out of tune, and vice versa. But all this is temporary. After each rough tuning, you need to let the guitar sit, periodically adjusting it. Use either an electronic tuner or a tuning fork.

The Internet can be an excellent assistant in this matter, where you can find many video lessons that help inexperienced and novice guitarists change strings.

Playing a guitar with glowing strings has become a fashionable trend in the world of music; it is the neon strings that give the guitar a special chic, especially in a dimly lit room. Such strings glow under the influence of ultraviolet light, it looks very impressive, so if you perform on stage, then this is exactly what you need.

Every experienced guitarist knows that strings need to be changed regularly. If you neglect this rule, the sound of the guitar and its general condition will rapidly deteriorate. Therefore, every beginner sooner or later faces the question “how to change strings on a guitar.” We will look at the process of replacing strings on an acoustic guitar, electric guitar and bass guitar below.

For most beginning musicians, this process seems terribly complicated and incomprehensible.

In fact, you don’t need to have any special skills, and even a person far from music can change the strings with clear and step-by-step instructions.

Professional guitarists change strings every month, or even every week. However, for an amateur guitarist who devotes about an hour a day to his hobby, it is enough to change the strings once every two to three months. In general, the question “how often to change strings” is quite philosophical. There are a huge number of manufacturers, materials and thickness standards. You can understand all this diversity by reading here. One set of strings can perform its functions properly for three months, while another will become unusable within a couple of weeks. Therefore, the best option is to monitor the condition of the strings daily and purchase a new set if:

• You notice that the sound of the guitar has become “faded” and inexpressive;
• You have to tune your guitar more and more often;
• The strings cling to the frets;
• External signs appeared - loss of color, shape.

Does it look like your guitar? — Go to the store for a new set!

How to change strings on an acoustic guitar

Today, there are two types of acoustics on store shelves - those with nylon strings and those with metal strings. A guitar with nylon strings is usually called “classical” - it is usually taught in music schools and played exclusively with fingers, without a pick. Guitar with metal - “dreadnought” or “western”. It’s not worth putting nylon on “western” or metal on “classics” - such experiments, at best, will ruin the sound, and at worst, the neck will be bent.

First, let's figure out how to change the strings on an acoustic guitar with metal strings.

1. Loosen the pegs by hand or using a special wrench.
2. Take the strings out of the pegs and unwind them.
3. Remove the pins (plugs) that hold the strings in a stationary position from the holder. We recommend using a special tool instead of pliers or pliers. But if neither one nor the other is at hand, use any coin.
4. Take out the strings.
5. Take the time to wipe hard-to-reach places on the hyphae and soundboard when the strings are tense.
6. Time for new strings. The optimal order of string tension is 1st, 6th. 2nd, 5th, 3rd, 4th. This method gives more space to your hands.
7. Insert the string into the hole on the holder and press it down with the plug until it stops.
8. Insert the other end into the peg and wrap it around.
9. Wind the strings to approximate working condition. The first three strings are tensioned clockwise, the rest - counterclockwise. Don't forget to hold the plugs, otherwise the string may pop out.
10. Use wire cutters to remove any remaining ends.

The difference in installing strings on classics and dreadnoughts lies in the different mounting on the holders. In “classics”, as a rule, there are no plugs - the strings are attached using a knot.

• Thread the string into the holder.
• Make a loop - bring the end of the string behind the main part.
• Wrap the end around the string and thread it through the loop to create a knot.
• Press the string against the soundboard.
• Tighten the string tighter by pulling the main part and the end in different directions.

How to change strings on an electric guitar

1. Use a wrench or manually to release the tension.
2. Pull the strings through the back of the guitar. To make it easier to grip the strings, insert the strings through the hole. If you have a Floyd Rose type machine, then you need to loosen the “saddles” for the strings with a special wrench.
3. Don't forget to take care of your guitar - wipe it with a lint-free cloth.
4. Before installing new strings, place the guitar at a comfortable level on a soft surface to avoid scratches.
5. Turn the tuning pin hole to face you.
6. Thread the strings through the holes on the back or place them in Floyd Rose saddles.
7. Press the string a little and slowly tighten it.
8. Next, insert it into the peg and start winding.
9. Trim the remaining strings.

Changing strings is one of the main operations when playing the guitar. and you should be able to complete it yourself. However, on a guitar with a free-floating double-sided Floyd Rose tremolo, this is quite a difficult task and I wouldn't be surprised if it gives you some trouble, especially if you are a beginner guitarist and not very strong in the technical part of this matter.

So how do you change the strings on a Floyd Rose electric guitar? The following instructions will teach you how to properly and efficiently replace strings, and how to tune a guitar with such a bridge. Not all Floyd Rose bridges are identical. Some, for example, do not require trimming the string ends before installing them. Even if your Floyd Rose system is slightly different from the one in the photos, this method of changing strings will still be the same or very similar.

Let's assume that the starting point is an adjusted guitar with installed strings, which you once again want to replace with new ones. If you always use the same strings (ie, same model, same brand), then after installing new strings, the guitar should play well, without the need for additional adjustments.

I hope that you know how to use a screwdriver, a hex wrench and wire cutters, and that you don’t need to explain which way to unscrew or tighten the screws). Otherwise, ask someone who knows all the listed instruments to help you (it is not at all necessary that he knows how to play the guitar).

I want to warn you in advance that you perform all manipulations with the guitar at your own peril and risk, although I can hardly imagine that you will manage to break something; in extreme cases, you will have to give the guitar to a more experienced friend for tuning, so don’t worry and don't be scared).

Attention! Working with a guitar (as well as playing it) must be done with extreme caution. A broken string or a protruding uncut end of a string can seriously injure you or a person nearby. Pay special attention to the safety of small children. Instilling music from a young age is of course good, but you need to approach everything head on!

A suitable place for operations such as changing strings or tuning a guitar is a small coffee table with a piece (50cm x 50cm) of thick (about 5cm) sponge placed on the tabletop to protect the guitar from damage. You also need good lighting and several tools: a Phillips screwdriver, wire cutters, hex keys, an electronic tuner, a brush, a rag. If a special sponge is not found, then it can be replaced with an ordinary soft blanket.

Now let's get started changing the strings to the Floyd Rose!

Unscrew the back cover of the tremolo springs. As a rule, it is secured with 6 screws using a Phillips screwdriver.

Loosen the string locks with the hex socket. A key of the appropriate size must be included with the guitar. If you don't have the original key, you need to get one. Choose a wrench of the exact size you need, since using a smaller wrench will destroy the screws, and very soon you will need to replace them, and this, as you know, costs money.

The fact is that There are metric hexagons and there are inch hexagons., their sizes are slightly different and it is sometimes quite difficult to determine by eye which key is in front of you. The key must be in good condition and have sharp edges; a hexagon with knocked down edges destroys the bolt splines and they quickly become unusable. Of course it is advisable to have a spare key and spare screws, this is not such a big investment.

Unscrew the locking bolt completely and remove the locking pads. It is easier and faster to unscrew a loose bolt by inserting the long part of the key into the head of the screw.

Place all bolts, screws and other small parts in a box, so you won’t have to look for them later.

Unscrew the screws holding the tremolo springs 5-10 turns so that the tremolo rises up, but do not unscrew them completely. The ideal tool for this purpose is a long screwdriver, but in principle a regular short screwdriver can also be used to do this.

Set all micro-adjustments in the middle position so that you can then adjust them in one direction or the other. Do it now, because later you will forget!

Loosen the peg of the first string () so that it is completely free, but does not come out of the pin.

Loosen the micro-adjustment lock with a hexagon of the required size, 1-2 turns should be enough. Do everything carefully so as not to damage the varnish on the guitar..

Remove the first string by pulling it up with your fingers. If it doesn’t want to come out, then loosen the locking screw one more turn.

Tighten (lightly) back the locking screw. If you don't do this, the blocking pads may fall out and you will have to look for them all over the floor for a long time ;-).

Remove the string from by unscrewing it and pulling it up. When screwing the string, be careful that the string does not scratch the varnish on the headstock. The old string needs to be rolled up and thrown into the trash. Don’t leave it “just in case,” so to speak, in case it comes in handy. I assure you - it will not be useful! Well, okay, I left it myself once ;-).

Strip all the other strings in the same manner, moving from the thinnest first string(s) to the thickest sixth string(s).

If during this operation the bridge (aka “bridge”) has sunk as in the photo above and you have lost access to the locking screws, then unscrew it a few more turns screws that secure tremolo spring (we unscrewed them with a long screwdriver), the bridge will rise back up and you can continue working.

Press the tremolo lever to lift the rear end up, and place paper business cards or playing cards under the locking screws at the back. Add enough so that the bridge is more or less parallel (horizontally) to the guitar's soundboard.

Do not place a pencil, battery or something similar under the bridge, as some “experts” recommend, in this way you can damage the varnish of your (or even worse, someone else’s) guitar. Playing cards are perfect for this purpose. If you are not an avid gambler and you don’t have any cards, then... buy a deck of 54 playing cards and cut it in half - and then you will get a pad of the required size. It’s better not to use old, tattered cards; buy new ones.

I hope everything went smoothly and the strings were removed from the guitar.

Every time when you change the strings, it is necessary thoroughly clean the guitar neck, for example, with a clean, dry flannel cloth...

As well as hard-to-reach places on the frets, for this we use a toothbrush

We take this opportunity to clean the pickups and all hard-to-reach places

You can also use a brush with a wooden handle

Wow! One block for the sixth string clamp is missing! You probably forgot to tighten the locking screw back after removing the string. But I did say so!

Now we have to look for him. If it’s not on the table, it means it’s lying somewhere on the floor. It looks like the picture below. If you have large gaps in your parquet, then be sure it is there. I consider a magnet to be the best tool for finding a lost shoe on a carpet or for removing it from a crack in a parquet floor; the bigger the better. If the block is lost forever, then you can buy it at a good music store or a special service.

You must place the blocking block in the saddle exactly as I show in the picture, that is, the hole should be shifted down and look in the direction opposite to the bar. The tip of the locking screw, after tightening, should fit into the hole in the block and protect it from falling out when the lock is slightly loosened. After installing the block and tightening the locking screw, you need to check whether everything was installed correctly.

Unpack the new strings.

Important! The strings on an electric guitar are placed in a strictly defined sequence, which depends on the location of the pegs on the headstock. The string whose peg is closest to the bridge is placed first, and so on as the pegs move away.

For example, if the pegs are on top of the headstock, then we start installing the strings starting with the 6th (thickest) string. If the pegs are located at the bottom, then you need to start with the 1st (thinnest) string. If the pegs are located on both sides of the headstock, then first set the strings from 6th to 4th, then from 1st to 3rd.

Standard electric guitar strings have a small grommet on one side, making them easy and quick to install on guitars with a traditional bridge.

For a guitar with a Floyd Rose bridge, these bushings are not needed, so cut them off with side cutters (about 1cm). Do not cut the bushings from all the strings at once, cut only from the one you will install, this will help you avoid getting tangled.

Loosen the bridge saddle locking screw for the sixth string (MI) by 2-3 turns.

Insert the end of the string (the one from which you just cut the sleeve) into the “saddle” as I show in the picture. If the string does not want to go in, then unscrew the locking screw one more turn. The string should enter the saddle 5-6mm - you must be sure that it goes all the way.

If you do not insert the string deep enough (that is, not all the way), then the string may subsequently jump out during tuning or while playing, and even injure your hands or face, so do this with due care!

Holding the end of the string with one hand, tighten the locking screw with the other hand until it stops, squeezing the string as if in a vice. You need to tighten it tightly enough so that after the final tuning the string does not jump out, but do not overdo it, you need to know when to stop everything. The strength of a 10-year-old child is quite enough here.

Insert the other end of the string into the hole of the peg and...

Pull the string all the way through. Measure about 4cm - this is approximately to the next peg, if you have a neck with pegs on opposite sides. And so, measure and fix this distance with your fingers

Now pull the string back this 4 cm, still holding it with your fingers. Do not unclench your fingers and keep them in the same place all the time!

Using the fingers of your other hand, grasp the string on the other side of the pin.

You can release the string with your first hand, but you don’t need to release the string with your second hand, continue to hold it.

With your free hand, begin to twist the peg. Hold the string in the peg hole all the time (this can be done with one finger, as in the picture). As the peg turns, the end of the string will also begin to bend. In the photo, the peg pin has already turned a quarter of a turn and the string is bent at a right angle.

And now the tuning pin has been turned another quarter turn. Pick up the string with three fingers, and continue to hold the peg at the base of the pin with your index finger - this is done so that when winding the string is always taut. This will make it easier and more convenient to wind it.

Continue winding the string around the tuning pin. When the pin is turned about 3/4 of a turn, you will have to decide whether the free end of the string will go under the tensioned string or above it. Traditionally, during the first turn, the free end of the string is tucked under the tensioned string, I recommend not changing the general traditions and threading the string in the same way.

Press the string down with your finger so that the next turn goes under the string protruding from the pin.

Exactly as in the picture.

To make the string fit better, keep it slightly taut.

When the string is sufficiently tensioned, tuck it under the clamping bar and place it in the hole of the upper blocker

Pull the string a little more so that you don’t have to hold it with your hand. You don’t need to tighten it too much, just pull it lightly so that it doesn’t just dangle.

Two or three turns of the string are enough for it to hold securely and not slip out of the hole of the pin.

Cut off the free end of the string with pliers, leave a tail of 5 millimeters, this is enough. Be careful with the coating, take care of the varnish.

Make sure that the bridge is positioned correctly and that the bridge fits into the recesses on the stems. If not, correct the bridge by hand. Take the cards/cards out from under the bridge for a minute and move it around to make sure everything works as it should. Reinsert business cards/cards under the bridge.

All other strings need to be placed in the same way. From the side of the bridge you do everything according to a similar scheme. There will be slight differences on the headstock side. To consolidate the material, we will discuss the most difficult steps again, although most of them will be no different from what we have already done.

Fix the fifth string (note A) in the “saddle” of the bridge by analogy with how you installed the sixth string, and pass the free end under the string holder bar...

And insert it into the hole of the peg. When installing the remaining strings, remember to thread them under the string holder bar before placing it on the peg. However, if you forgot to do this, then it is not necessary to remove the already installed strings, just unscrew the bar, install all the strings and screw the bar back.

If it suddenly turns out that the gap under the bar is too small and the strings have difficulty getting under the bar, just unscrew it a few turns, and after installing all the strings, screw it back.

In general, installing the fifth string is completely similar to installing the sixth string, I’m posting a photo without explanation:

don't forget to cut the end of the string!

Installing the fourth string is also no different from installing the fifth string; we follow the already proven scheme. After installing the first three strings and trimming the ends, it will all look something like this:

As the remaining strings are tightened, at some point (no matter when) their tension will be so strong that the bridge will rise up and the placed cards will fall out from under the locking screws. It's okay, don't worry, that's how it should be!
The bridge should be in a position approximately as in the picture (that is, slightly raised up). If you see that the bridge is riding up too much, then this needs to be corrected. Loosen the already tense strings a little and the bridge will drop to the desired height. As a last resort, unscrew the screws securing the bridge springs a few turns.

We install the first string according to the scheme already familiar to us; there are no changes here. The only thing you need to remember is the order in which the strings are installed. In our case (when the pegs are located on different sides of the headstock), the order will be as follows: we start with the first, then the second, followed by the third string.

We wind the second, and then the third string

Strings without winding (1st, 2nd and 3rd) can be placed backwards to front, that is, without cutting off the fixing sleeve. First, insert the peg into the hole, pull it under the clamping bar and finally insert it into the mount with the “saddle”. But personally, it seems to me that this method does not simplify at all, but rather complicates the process of installing strings. But the choice is yours.

One more point regarding safety precautions! Very sharp (like needles), the ends of the strings sticking out after trimming can injure your hands, and uncut ends can injure your eyes, there have already been precedents. Be careful and extremely careful.

You don’t have to cut the strings at all (some people even like it ;-), but then they get in the way in the case and again can be dangerous for our eyes. Personally, I'd rather prick my finger every now and then than risk my eye.

Make sure that all the strings have passed under the clamping bar and are correctly placed in the top lock, namely in the grooves intended for the strings

also check the position of the strings on the bridge itself

Press down on the lever to make sure the bridge is well suspended on the stems

Turn the guitar over and...

Insert the halves of playing cards we already love into the gap between the sustain block and the deck. It will be easier for you to do this if you use the tremolo lever, pulling it up.

You need to place enough cards so that the bridge is parallel to the body of the guitar

Make sure that the clamping bar presses the strings sufficiently into the guide holes of the top lock. The strings should touch the edges of the top lock on both sides. In the photo, the clamping bar is located too high and the strings do not fully adhere to the top lock seat.

If necessary, tighten the clamping bar with a screwdriver. But do not tighten it all the way, twist it exactly as much as necessary, so that the string fits into the holes of the top lock.

Now the strings fit properly

We carry out the primary one without using micro-adjustment. The bridge is currently blocked by a deck of cards, so it will be completely motionless, and the setup should be quite good.

Attention! At this point, you need to check that the guitar is building along the harmonics. It may be necessary to adjust the scale and do it better now. How to do this is the topic of a separate article. If the guitar is tuned normally by harmonics, then you move on to the next step.

Install the blocking pads into the top-lock seats. Tighten the screws a few turns so that the pads hold, but do not fix, the strings. The strings should still slide freely.

This is how the clamping pads should be installed:

But in no case can this be done! In the photo below, the pads are installed in the transverse direction (they are rotated 90 degrees). Pay close attention to this!

Using only the pegs on the headstock and tighten the locking screw with a hex wrench. You need to tighten it firmly, but carefully.

Check the quality of the tuning of the 5th and 6th strings; for this it is advisable to use a tuner, but if there is no tuner, then rely on your hearing. If you did everything correctly in the previous stages, then the strings should build and hold the tune well.Small deviations from the ideal sound are possible, but they can be corrected using micro-adjustments.

We set up the remaining strings in the same way.

Finish your guitar tuning with microtuning , do this while holding the guitar in playing position. If you did the previous steps correctly, then correction should be ( as the title says) minimum.

Place the guitar on your lap, making sure not to touch the bridge or micro-tuning, and tighten the screws holding the tremolo springs just enough...

so that we can freely, without the use of force, pull out our deck of playing cards.

Place the guitar on your lap and check how the 6th string is tuned. If the string sounds lower, then slightly tighten the screws securing the tremolo springs; if the string sounds higher, then turn them out slightly. Try to tighten or unscrew both screws evenly. Tune the 6th string this way and then check the tuning of the remaining strings.

All strings must sound perfect. If they all sound a little too low or too high, then correct it in the same way as with the 6th string, that is, tightening/loosening the spring mounting screws. Do not use micro adjustments, try to achieve the best results only by adjusting the tension of the tremolo springs.

And only now you can make minimal adjustments using micro-tuning, but if until now you have done everything correctly, then this should not be necessary.

After all the manipulations done, you should have a guitar in your hands with new strings and a tuned bridge (Floyd Rose bridge) installed as it should, that is, according to all the rules.

Congratulations!

The final touch remains. You need to screw the back cover of the tremolo springs back into place. It's up to you to screw it on or not.

Most professional guitarists tend to leave this cover off so they always have quick access to spring adjustments. If you want to join their number, then put the cover and screws in a safe place, because it may come in handy someday (for example, when selling a guitar).