Restoration of scanned old photographs using Photoshop. Professional restoration

Surely, many of you have old photographs in your family albums that bear the imprint of time - scuffs, tears, scratches, dirt, despite this, they are priceless because they pass on the memory of the past to new generations. With the advent of new technologies and knowledge, people have learned to restore time-worn photographs and return old photographs to their former attractiveness.

Today we will talk to you about retouching old photos in Photoshop. Retouching old photographs is a bit labor-intensive, however, the result should please you, since in Photoshop you can achieve almost complete restoration of the photo to its original state, and perhaps even improve the original photo.

I found an old photo on the Internet with visible defects, which I will try to restore using retouching in Photoshop.

Let's get started

Open the photo - Ctrl+O.

First, let's analyze the photo: the photo has large scratches, abrasions, there are missing background fragments, there is also small debris and noise that appeared when scanning the photo, corners are torn off or erased.

We define the tasks that we face:

• Cropping
• Removing large defects, restoring parts of the image
• Color correction
• Improved Clarity

Cropping

If the photo is missing some fragments that do not carry a semantic load and do not participate in the composition, which can easily be sacrificed, such as: pieces of a uniform background, trees, draperies, etc. we simply crop them to save time and effort.

In my case, the photo had corners torn off on both sides; I decided to get rid of part of the background so as not to complete the image in places where there are no semantic elements.

Take the Crop Tool (Frame / Crop), draw a frame around the area that we want to leave, cut off the rest. Elements that are cropped will be darkened, adjust the frame sizes until you are happy with the result.

You may not need to crop the image in your case, only trim the edges if necessary.

Getting rid of small debris and scratches

Go to the layers palette - F7, copy the layer - Ctrl+J, so as not to affect the original by editing and be able to later compare the source with the result obtained after retouching.

Go to the menu Filter – Noise – Dust and Scratches (Filter – Noise – Dust and Scratches).

We set the values ​​by eye, so as to hide minor defects. I set the “radius” to 12 and “isohelium” to 10. Uncheck the Preview box to compare the future effect of the filter and the source. To apply the filter, click OK.

Apply a mask to the layer. To do this, click on the mask icon at the bottom of the layers palette. A white mask will appear next to the layer thumbnail, and the foreground and background colors at the bottom of the Tools palette will change to black and white.

Take the Brush Tool. The principle of working with a mask is that you can quickly hide some parts of the image and also quickly restore them, if necessary.

With black we erase parts of the image, with white - on the contrary, we return everything that was erased if necessary.

Select black color, I took a standard round brush with soft edges. We erase parts of the blurred image on significant parts of the photo: faces, folds of clothing, borders of large elements that should remain clear. If we have erased the excess, we switch between colors and restore parts of the image with white.

This is roughly what I got at this stage:

We got rid of minor defects, now we move on to large scratches and missing fragments. For this we will use the Healing Brush Tool (J), Clone Stamp Tool (S) and Path Tool (J).

Removing large defects

Duplicate the layer Ctrl+J, apply a mask - right-click on the layer and click “Apply layer mask”.

Go to the initial source layer, make a copy of it - Ctrl+J, move it under the copy of the layer with the mask that was created a step earlier (now this layer will be the penultimate one). Select the top layer, press Ctrl+E to merge the copy of the layer with the mask with the bottom layer - a copy of the source.

Select the Healing Brush Tool. The tool copies a sample of a user-specified image fragment and overlays it on another area of ​​the image, taking into account the content of the substrate, thus seamlessly merging different fragments with each other. The Clone Stamp Tool works in a similar way, with one difference: it does not take into account the contents of the underlying layer when overlaying fragments on top of each other.

We take samples of the entire background around the scratches using the Alt key, and fill large scratches with these fragments. Take a different sample for each scratch, since different areas are lit differently.

In areas where large fragments of the photo are missing, use the Healing Brush together with the Clone Stamp Tool. Using a cloning stamp, we copy the entire nearby section of the image - Alt, and fill the missing fragment with this piece, then go through the Healing Brush Tool to smooth out the edges and make the background uniform.

Instead of the healing brush, you can use the Path Tool (J), it works on the same principle as the Healing Brush Tool. When working with a patch, you pre-outline the area that needs to be retouched, and then, holding down the left mouse button, see which area of ​​the image to use as a patch, moving the mouse over the image. After you release the mouse, the fragment is filled with the selected area of ​​the background.

In difficult places, where special clarity is needed and border pixels cannot be mixed, make a selection using the Lasso Tool (L) or Polygonal Lasso Tool (Polygonal Lasso), and then use a healing brush within the selection.

I removed the cracks and main defects, let's see what happened:

Some places in the photo have become blurry and have lost their character; the folds break off in some places and do not continue. Now we will try to fully restore the background and separate the characters from the background.

To restore the broken folds, I used the Path Tool (J), simply dragging the folds from one place to another.

I copied the lost items of clothing from one person, transformed them with Ctrl+T and pasted them to another person.

To enhance image clarity and make objects stand out from the background, try to achieve edge contrast between important elements. I added some dark background around the people in some places using a selection and a combination of a healing brush and a cloning stamp to enhance the edge contrast and create depth.

I also created a selection using the Polygonal Lasso Tool and filled it with the Paint Bucket Tool on a new layer with a dark color to enhance the difference between the people's silhouettes and the background.

To smooth out the sharp edges, I made a Gaussian blur with a radius of 25px. Filter- Blur - Gaussian blur.

Change the layer blending mode to “Multiply”, reduce the Opacity of the layer to 30%. We use an eraser with soft edges to work on the rough areas of the blurred layer.

Make a copy of all layers on a new layer - Ctrl+Shift+Alt+E. Let's move on to color correction.

Color correction

I desaturated the image to get rid of extraneous colored elements and re-colored it - Ctrl+Shift+U.

Add contrast to the image Image – Adjustments- Brightness/Contrast (Image – Correction – Brightness/Contrast). I increased the contrast to +50.

Return the color - Image - Adjustments - Hue/Saturation. Check the box next to “Colorize”. We make settings to your taste. In the top line we select the color, in the second its degree of saturation.

I also decided to tweak the levels - Ctrl+L to achieve even greater contrast. Move the sliders and experimentally arrive at the desired result.

Sharpening

How to improve image clarity is a matter of taste. Some people use sharpening filters, but I love and always use another standard filter - Paint Daubs (Oil painting).

Filter - Filter Gallery -Paint Daubs (Filter -Filter Gallery - Oil Painting). Set both settings (brush size and sharpness) to 1.

Usually a single application of a filter is enough to improve image clarity, but in my case I used the filter several times. To repeat the filter used in the previous operation, press Ctrl+F.

Everything is ready, you can select all editable layers in the palette by holding down the Shift key and clicking on the outermost layers (the first from the top and the penultimate one). Press Ctrl+G to merge the selected layers into a group. Now you can disable/enable the visibility of a group of layers by clicking on the eye icon to compare the result with the source.

My result:

In this lesson we looked at how to retouch old photographs in Photoshop. I hope you learned something new from the lesson.

Perhaps, many of us in our family archives have many old, faded, damaged by time and the playful hands of children, but, nevertheless, photographs dear to our hearts. In our next lesson, we will learn how to restore, in 5 to 10 minutes, a moment of life dear to the owner, left in the form of a photo card.

Based on the appearance of the photo, we will select tools to improve its appearance.

The basis of the process is SCANNING A PHOTOGRAPHY.

Despite the fact that in most black and white photos there is no color as such, it is better to scan them in “color” mode (RGB), because When scanning in “grayscale” mode, there is a risk of getting a noisy and lower-quality result, which will be much more difficult to work with. Regarding resolution, in the example described, 300 dpi was enough.

Using the keyboard shortcut CTRL-L you can quickly bring up the Levels dialog menu.

In most cases, the contrast and dynamic range of old photos is small, that is, there are no completely white or completely black areas, everything is not interesting—cloudy, gray. This is exactly what we will fix with the help of Levels. To do this, the white and black point sliders should be moved to those points where the histogram displays the beginning of areas with dark and light pixels

Now WE REMOVE SCRATCHES AND CORRECT DAMAGED AREAS.

Using the Dust & Scratches filter (Filter-Noise-Dust & Scratches) we globally remove minor scratches and damage. The filter settings depend on the nature of the photo used, but basically you should first select the smallest possible radius (Radius) - most of the scratches will be removed, then, to preserve maximum detail, select the Threshold (Threshold). Areas where the photo is damaged are seriously corrected using the Patch and Healing Brush tools

The next stage is IMPROVING IMAGE CLARITY.

An “unsharp mask” will help here (read about its application in the section Improving the clarity of photos). In the experimental photo, this tool was used twice:

The first time - in order to improve the overall contrast of the photo (they returned the feeling of a sunny day, which disappeared due to the fading of the photo paper). Small “power”, large radius (Amount 10%, Radius 60, Threshold 0).

The second time - to improve local contrast, the clarity itself. Small radius and greater “power” compared to the first time (Amount 40%, Radius 1.6, Threshold 0).

Next, using Shadow/Hightlight, WE ADDITIONALLY PROCESS THE DARK AND LIGHT AREAS.

This tool is very useful for quickly developing dark areas of an image. The only caveat is to select the basic settings (Shadows Amount, Radius and Tonal Width) so as not to lose detail or kill the contrast by making the image “flat”.

And finally, LET'S ADD A LITTLE COLOR.

Hue/Saturation is the tool that makes it possible to make a photo more interesting, emphasizing its value for history and you personally (quick access with the CTRL-U keyboard shortcut). To do this, check the Colorize box and set Hue 40 and Saturation 10.

This tutorial describes a quick, although not perfect, way to enhance a photo.
For simplicity of presentation, we did not use layers;
for a truly high-quality result, many areas require additional processing;
Tools like Dust&Scrathes should be used with caution, because... in some cases they had a destructive effect on the image;
It would be more effective to use Curves to correct dark and light areas.

Yes, there are shortcomings, but even if they are present, the result you get will pleasantly surprise both you and your friends. Don’t be afraid to try new things, it’s not as scary as it seems. Have a nice time with the Photoshop wizard and enjoy the colorful results!

The simplest advice for photo restoration is to contact a photo salon specialist. You will pay a certain amount of money, but at the same time save your time and nerves. For those who are not looking for easy ways, we suggest that you independently “reanimate” an old photograph using Adobe Photoshop.

Faded and faded photographs are easiest to restore; cracked photographs with creases and loss of fragments are more difficult to restore. Perform actions in a specific order.

1. CORRECT COLOR. Scan the photo you want and open it in Adobe Photoshop. Old photographs are often oversaturated with green, gray, and red colors. Let's fix this with auto-selection. Find "Levels" in the drop-down lists. Or press the combination Ctrl+L. Click Auto. Evaluate the result.

If you are not satisfied with it, adjust the tone manually in the “Levels” window. Here you will have to work almost blindly, experimenting with different values ​​of shadows and light. Sometimes the “Color Balance” function helps to adjust the light.

Adjust the saturation using the slider in the menu “Image” - “Correction” - “Select Color”. Add color using the Hue, Saturation function, remove shadows with the Shadow/Highlight button.

2. RETOUCHING. Remove cracks using Lab Color mode. Select “Layers” - “Channels” - “Brightness”, take the “Clone Stamp” tool. Use it to remove cracks from the photo. A similar tool for uniform areas is the Spot Healing Brush. Using the Alt keyboard key, take a sample from the desired area and transfer it to the crack. And so many times. Please note that facial details require extreme clarity.

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At the site of the crack, a colored stripe has formed, which will also be removed by the “Cloning Stamp”, set in the blending mode to “Color” - after all, you only need to clone it.

3. WE CORRECT MINOR DEFECTS. Old photographs are often covered with various kinds of scratches and stains. The already well-known “Cloning Stamp” and a healing brush will help remove these and other imperfections. The Dodge and Burn tools will help restore facial features that have been lost or faded over time. This work is painstaking and responsible.

We hope your determination has not dried up and you have achieved some results. As you work, it will become clear that Photoshop provides other alternative methods for processing photos that you can also easily master!

Today we will look at one of the most interesting topics in photo processing with Photoshop - photo retouching. Retouching is generally a very exciting activity. It’s damn interesting and pleasant when a seemingly completely worthless, spoiled photograph turns out to be something real and tangible, when a past era, people and destinies are revealed.

Just recently, one of my friends asked me to restore an old family photograph he had found from almost a century ago. Her condition, you understand, was very far from perfect. Once again we have to be convinced of the advantage of digital over film, at least in terms of the safety of photographic materials...

So let's start p photo retouching. The first thing we need to do is scan our “old lady”. As a rule, almost all old photographs have “scars” on their body - fractures, missing fragments (for example, lost corners when torn out of albums), simply fading and much more. This work had all of the above “advantages”. The photo was scanned at 600 dpi. In principle, for such work when printing, 300 dpi is quite enough, but for retouching it is desirable to have a higher resolution to reduce distortion. The output file is TIFF format and highly preferably 12 or 16 bit. The contrast during scanning needs to be reduced, then, during photo processing, we will restore it. It is advisable to scan in RGB mode, even if the photo is black and white. Then select from the three channels the one with the least damage, removing the rest. As a general rule, the noisiest channel is usually blue. This way we get the original monochrome image. Since the file size of a monochrome photo is significantly smaller, this significantly speeds up its processing. I highlight two methods for approaching retouching complex photographs.

We perform the simplest operations first, gradually moving on to the most problematic areas. At the same time (especially if you do this rarely, from time to time), you get better at simple operations, approaching complex areas with extensive experience. And as simple retouching progresses, the photograph begins to improve before our eyes, which greatly inspires further work. Or we start with the most difficult (more suitable for very experienced users), leaving the little things “for later”.

Let's focus on the first option p photo retouching. Let's try to draw up some approximate retouching work plan for ourselves, so as not to run around the photo from corner to corner looking for defects. Since there is nowhere to frame our work further, it is necessary to restore the edges of our canvas, eliminate creases and large scratches, try to restore the “severed” leg of a man, retouch the woman’s face (the most difficult thing), clean up the remaining little things, general exposure correction and final toning are also necessary.

Of course, to restore the edges of the canvas, you can use different photo processing methods. In this case I did the following. As you remember, we scanned the photo with very low contrast, now this will be very useful. The inner cover of the scanner usually has a black backing. If this is not the case, then cover the photo with a black sheet of paper and, if possible, press it more tightly against the glass to smooth out the creases.
Now the black level of your work when scanning will correspond exactly to the scanner substrate, as can be seen in the photo above. Make a copy of the layer (Ctrl+J), then right-click (pen) select Color Range (color range) and select our black outline where there was no photo. At the same time, use the Fuzziness slider to determine the selection range. Then, selecting a drawing tool, for example a brush, using the B key, pressing the Alt key, use an eyedropper to select the tone of the drawing tool in the picture itself. First, select a tone in the floor area (lighter) and paint it over the selected black area opposite the floor. Then select a medium tone for the rest of the edge (darker) and paint over the rest of the selected black area. Why is such complexity needed - for the correct operation of our miracle tool Patch (patch).

Select a tool with the J key. This function contains three tools: Patch, Healing Brush and Replace Color, which can be switched with the Shift+J keys. What's so good about this photo editing tool? It allows you to replace the texture of a selected area while maintaining its brightness and color components. I will show this using the example of an enlarged fragment of the floor near a woman’s leg.
Let us select with a pen the area that we are going to “treat”; this will be the edge of the photograph, which we have painted over with a tone taken as a sample from the border area of ​​the picture. The main thing is to take your time, following the rule - less is more. Since we need to restore the texture of the floor, we move the selected area with a pen to the area from which we will take a sample of the texture, observing the alignment of the sample in relation to the selected area (in this case, along the gap between the boards). After alignment, raise the pen (release the left mouse button). The result is amazing - no traces of stitching of fragments. We process the entire area in a similar way. It should be added that the tool has several operating modes. Source (source) - in this mode we select the area that we are treating. Destination (target) - in this mode we select the area to be treated (texture sample). When the Transparency checkbox is selected, the texture sample affects the transparency of the replaced fragment (used quite rarely). I consider the Source mode to be the most optimal and convenient.

The photo processing result shown below was obtained in eight steps. If we had not aligned our missing edge of the photo with previous operations of highlighting and shading in tone with the photo itself, then the brightness of the replaced fragment would change from basic to black. That is, our photo would have a blurry black border, which is unacceptable. The more accurately you match the tone on the missing edges, the better the end result will be. To return to some of the “fateful” stages of retouching, I strongly recommend creating a Snapshot of these stages. After this, you can safely clear the History palette to free up RAM if you don’t have enough.

We work in a similar way with the entire edge. The work is painstaking, but the result is worth it! Creases and large scratches can be removed in the same way, using the Patch and Stamp tool. Small dots and scratches can be removed more easily and quickly using the Healing Brush tool. The operation of the tool is absolutely similar to the previous one and is very similar to the operation of the Stamp tool, which is familiar to you. The only difference is that the Healing Brush takes only the texture from the sample, and the brightness and color from the “repaired” area. Some features of its use should be taken into account. The Patch and Healing Brush tools have some blurring of the boundaries relative to the selection outline, so they cannot be used at the boundaries of sharp brightness transitions - the result of processing the photo will not be very successful.
Thus, attempts to remove damage “on the forehead” near a woman’s head using Patch lead to blurring of the boundaries and disruption of the uniformity of tone of the replaced fragment. To prevent similar results when processing photographs in problem areas of sharp tonal transitions, you can first use the Stamp tool with adjustable edge hardness (for more precise overlay). It is used to separate (expand) transition boundaries if the fragment being replaced is large enough. If the fragment is small, then you can simply paint over it with the Stamp tool, and then apply Patch to the same place for alignment.

As you can see, the result is p photo retouching completely different. If you clearly understand the operating principle of these tools, then success is guaranteed!
The next stage of photo processing is to “make” the man’s missing leg (oh, if only it were possible in real life...). Before this important operation, you need to straighten the background in place of the missing leg, then it will be more difficult to do. We also do this with the Patch tool. Now we select his right leg almost to the knee (slightly higher than the missing part and with an allowance around the perimeter). Next, execute the Feather command with a radius of approximately 10 pixels. Copy Ctrl+C and paste on a new layer Ctrl+V. Hold down the Ctrl key (or, more conveniently, the bottom button of our wonderful Wacom pen) and drag the new leg into place, flipping it horizontally so that it becomes the left one! Next, using levels (but not the transparency of the layer), we adjust the brightness and contrast of the leg so that the transition point becomes invisible. It turned out like this.
Next, using an eraser, with a transparency of 50%, and light movements of the pen, we erase our allowance along the contour of the new leg to the background and in the places of the folds on the trousers. You can feel like a wizard.
Now we take on the most difficult and delicate task in photograph processing - restoration of a woman’s face. Here everything is somewhat more complicated, but not hopeless. The most difficult thing is to restore the eyes and nose area. We will then make the forehead using the usual tools. We can try to “just” draw the eyes, but I’m clearly not much of an artist, so we won’t even try. You can only complete small details, but no more. All that remains is to borrow eyes elsewhere, no matter how blasphemous it may sound.
Having carefully studied all the characters in the photo, I found that her daughter’s eyes are, in principle, very similar. This means that our daughter will be a “donor”. Turn on the lasso with the L key, select the area of ​​​​the eyes and nose on the daughter’s face (again with a small allowance), make a feather of about 10 px, copy it, paste it onto a new layer and drag the fragment to a new place. First you need to compare the distance between the eyes with the original. Naturally, in a child it is somewhat less. Therefore, we transform the fragment to the required size. For accuracy, turn on the grid (Ctrl+«). Then we put our eyes back in place.
All that remains is to lightly work with the eraser on the eyebrows and the eyes can be considered finished. The most seemingly complex operation in photograph processing was quite easy for us. Naturally, if there is no “donor” in the original photo, you can use another suitable photograph. Everything is at the mercy of your imagination, the main thing is not to give in to difficulties. Then we proceed according to the old scenario: “no noise, no dust...”, that is, we eliminate the remaining minor insignificant defects.

After we have eliminated all (or almost all) defects in the image, we need to make it look good: raise the contrast, tint it.
First, let's normalize its histogram using the Levels adjustment layer. In order to perform toning (if necessary), the image must be converted to RGB mode. After this, we apply toning in the Hue/Saturation adjustment layer. The transparency of this layer can be varied by changing the strength of the toning. We will address the issue of toning in more detail in one of the next issues of the magazine.

The result you see below took approximately two hours of work time. I’ll say right away that my friend was very pleased with the result!.. and brought a bunch of old photographs.
In conclusion, I want to say: treat the features of the past as carefully as possible. Try, if possible, to bring less new things into old photographs, otherwise you will end up with a “remake”. We have now deliberately considered a rather difficult situation when we had to restore the missing elements. But, by doing so, we only once again explored the capabilities of Photoshop tools in photo processing. Before taking on such work, especially if you are not doing it for yourself, be sure to discuss with the customer the possible consequences of such a deep restoration. Sometimes it is better to leave some moments as is, rather than distort or add on your own - after all, this is history!

Found an old photo in the bins? Unfortunately, paper is not the most reliable medium, and the discovered photograph, almost a hundred years old, is unlikely to boast of gloss and clarity of the image. Don’t rush to mourn a damaged photo or spend money on a professional restorer, you can restore it yourself! A convenient program for photo restoration, PhotoMASTER, will come to the rescue. Read how to restore an old photograph to its original appearance and preserve family history.

PhotoMASTER will help restore even badly damaged photos

Restoring photos in the PhotoMASTER editor

To protect a valuable family heirloom from further destruction and return it to its original appearance, you need to convert a paper photograph into a digital format. The easiest way to do this is with a regular camera or smartphone. However, this method has disadvantages:

• third-party light sources may leave reflections on the picture,
• the photo may turn out blurry and unclear,
• Uneven camera position distorts the image.

Ideally, it is better to scan the photo, as this will preserve the original colors and avoid glare.

Now that you have a digital copy, you need to download a program for restoring old photographs from our website. Install it on your computer and run it. Open the scanned image in PhotoMASTER and let's get started.

Restoration step by step

• Cutting off the damaged edge

If the edges of the photo are very frayed, which is very likely after so much time, it is better to get rid of them immediately without regret. Go to the “Composition” section and select “Cropping”. PhotoMASTER offers several cropping options: free frame proportions, maintaining the original proportions, as well as a number of standard aspect ratios: for a VKontakte post, for iPhone and iPad, size 4:3 and others. Choose a grid type that will help you frame the image correctly.

Trim the frayed edges and yellowed frame

Now frame the part of the photo that you want to leave. The main thing is not to get too carried away so as not to spoil the composition. In cases where the defects at the edges are too deep, for example, the picture is torn to the middle, it is better to partially correct the problem areas with retouching.

• We remove defects

You should be patient, as this part of the processing is the most labor-intensive. However, restoring photographs in Photoshop and other editors takes no less time. At the same time, it is much easier to master PhotoMASTER, and it also has convenient tools for quickly removing defects in photos.

Go to the "Retouching" section. Here you will find a whole set of tools that will help you disguise torn corners, eliminate traces of bends, hide stains that have appeared over time and similar problems.

The main work tool will be healing brush. It will cope perfectly with both pinpoint defects and large damage. Adjust the brush size according to the area of ​​the problem area. If you need to remove a stain from a photo, click the brush exactly in the middle and the defect will disappear. If you need to remove a scratch, carefully brush along it.

Removing a scratch from a photo

In a similar way, you will have to completely retouch the photo. Be patient and you will be rewarded with amazing results! If the brush categorically does not “take” some defects, leave them for processing with the next tool, which we will discuss later.

Photo before and after using a healing brush

Another very useful feature is stamp. It will allow you to quickly and effectively remove unwanted objects from the frame. For example, a red spot in the background can be easily eliminated. Mark the area you want to hide, and then select the place from which you will take the donor background.

Removing scratches with the Stamp tool

A convenient tool will allow you to remove the glare that appeared during the process of converting a photo into digital form, lighten dark areas, increase sharpness or blur some fragments of the image. "Corrector". Select the area you want and adjust the color, toning, and sharpness settings.

The corrector can be very useful if in some place you were unable to carefully use the healing brush and noticeable unevenness appeared. Select this bad fragment and increase the blur value a little. The defect will not be so noticeable.

Slight blurring of a section of curtains after removing a large scratch

When restoring portraits, the option will allow a little more "Perfect Portrait". With its help, you can automatically make your skin smoother, your eyes more expressive, and your face brighter.

The “Face Lightening” style will smooth out remaining imperfections and make your skin tone more attractive.

• Improving the clarity of a photo

Over time, any paper photographs fade, and the technology of the beginning of the last century did not provide the same high detail as modern SLR cameras. And yet you can make the photo a little more expressive! In the "Enhancements" section there is a "Sharpness" tab, go there and increase the value of the parameter to the desired value. You will notice that the image has become more expressive.

Increase sharpness to make the photo clearer and more expressive

• Bringing back “antiqueness”

If it seems to you that during the processing process the photo has lost its unique retro flair, this can be corrected. Go to the "Effects" category. Here you will find vintage filters. With their help, you can restore the touch of antiquity and the former charm of photographs from the past.

The “Retro-2” effect will color the photo in a pleasant sepia

See how photo restoration is done in the program: before and after.

Are you satisfied with the result? Then save the resulting image to your computer. You can print it on paper to replace the damaged old one or publish it on social networks.

The memory is with you forever

Now not a single precious photograph that has come down to you from the last century will be lost. Young great-grandparents will smile from the family album, and time will no longer cause their faces to fade. Entrust the restoration of old photos to the PhotoMASTER editor!