How to sew a zipper into a seamless sun skirt. How to sew a hidden zipper

For example, if it is a rare loose bouclé, voluminous lace, fabric with woven fibers, the ends of which stick out above the surface of the fabric. All this will be secured by a hidden zipper, because it is sewn close to the teeth.

In these cases, we sew in a regular zipper in an open or closed way. I will do a series of master classes on different ways to sew in a simple zipper.

Today we will sew a zipper into the skirt under the belt. This method is called “Zipper in the fold”. I still have a silk skirt from the 90s that was shown on the catwalk at the Burda trading house on Pushechnaya. This is how they used to sew zippers into all products, because we didn’t have hidden zippers yet. Please note that the zipper on this skirt is longer than usual due to the large difference between the waist and hips. Otherwise you can't wear a skirt.

I show how to sew in a zipper on a small sample and on a smooth fabric so that the stitching is visible.

You will need:

- textile
- zipper 18−22 cm long. Remember, the greater the difference between your waist and hips, the longer the zipper.
- tailor's pins
- needle and thread for sewing
- tailor's scissors
- Kantenband strip - 0.5 m

Step 1. Choosing the right zipper

It can be either plastic or metal, it will not be visible, but the teeth of the metal zipper in this case should be small and narrow!

Firstly, a regular zipper has teeth on the same side as the zipper, unlike a hidden one.

Secondly, the zipper must have a stopper that fixes the zipper in one place and prevents the zipper from spontaneously opening in the sock. This is especially true for tight pencil skirts.

Thirdly, the zipper should not be wide!

The stopper is the triangles on the bottom of the lock; they stand up when the lock is lowered into the zipper links and fix it in place.

Step 2

Iron the zipper from the bottom side, not along the teeth! Synthetic - dry iron, cotton - with steam. All zippers shrink slightly when ironed. Do not neglect this operation, otherwise after ironing the finished sewn-in zipper on the fabric, especially shiny and smooth fabric, ripples may appear along the zipper or the zipper may bend in an arc.

Step 3

To sew a zipper into a fold, allowances must be at least 2 cm! It is important.

Loose or stretchable fabrics need to be strengthened. To do this, glue the zipper allowances along the seam markings with strips of cantenband or any thin adhesive. For thick and non-stretchy fabrics, you can skip this step.

Step 4

Mark the zipper on the seam strictly under the metal stopper, otherwise it may get caught under the needle.

Baste the seam under the zipper.

After fitting, machine stitch the seam below the zipper, overcast the seam allowances separately.

Step 5

Iron the seam allowances below the zipper smoothly, and iron the left seam allowance under the zipper with a slight overlap to the right seam - up to 1 mm.

It is very important!

This influx will cover the stitching line of the zipper; it will be invisible in the finished product.

Step 6

Remove the basting in the seam; the photo shows that on the front side the left edge of the cut slightly overlaps the right.

Bend down the left edge of the slit from the front side of the skirt, and place a zipper under the right edge of the slit. The fold of the fabric should fit closely to the teeth of the zipper. Baste the right edge of the zipper 1 mm from the edge of the cut.

Step 7

Place the zipper foot so that the needle is at the far left of the foot.

Stitch the right edge of the zipper 1 mm from the fold with tacks at the beginning and end of the seam. The zipper does not need to be opened; the lock does not bother us.

This is what should happen.

Step 8

Cover the zipper with the left edge of the cut so that it overlaps the stitching by 1 mm. Pin the left edge over the stitching.

Step 9

From the inside of the skirt, baste the second half of the zipper close to the zipper; below, under the metal stopper, make a cross stitch so that when stitching from the face it does not fall on it.

Step 10

On the front side, mark an even line of stitching along the basting line.

Move the zipper foot so that the needle is at the far right of the zipper foot.

Unzip the zipper! Otherwise, the lock will prevent us from making an even stitch.
Sew along the markings to approximately the middle of the zipper.

Lower the machine needle into the fabric, lift the presser foot and carefully close the zipper!

Continue stitching with the zipper closed exactly according to the markings. At the end of the zipper, make a transverse fastener either at a right angle or obliquely, as you like.

This is what we got. The zipper is hidden in the fold, the zipper is not visible.

View of the zipper open and from the inside out. On the inside there is a cross stitch below the metal zipper stop.

With this zipper treatment, the top of the skirt is treated with a belt.
Other ways to sew a zipper into a product follow the links:

with facing

Svetlana Khatskevich

Svetlana graduated from a university with a degree in Sewing Technological Engineer. She has been teaching sewing technology for over 20 years. He is a senior teacher at the AcademyBurda." We know Svetlana from her work on the site since its inception. She generously shares her knowledge and infects with her love of sewing.

Sewing is creative, fun and educational. Welcome to this bright and interesting world!

Elizaveta Rumyantseva

Nothing is impossible for diligence and art.

Content

Beginner sewing needlewomen are sure that sewing on a hidden fastener is problematic. It should not be visible in the finished product, and this is important when the item combines beautiful fabric and an original style. After looking at the accessory in person, women wonder how to sew a hidden zipper as neatly as possible.

What is required for work

The hidden clasp differs from the usual one in its design. On the front side of the finished product, only the runner is visible, and the teeth are on the back. Everything looks beautiful and neat because the edges of the material are tightly pressed together. How to properly sew a hidden zipper and what is needed for such work?

If this is your first time doing this, you will need attention and patience. After the first lesson, next time you will do everything quickly. First you need to buy a lock of a suitable color. The required length is 20 centimeters. Please note that the teeth on the reverse side should bend, forming a groove for stitching. To work you will need:

• threads in the color of the material;
• needle;
• pins to pin the fastener before basting;
• sewing machine;
• special foot;
• padding to strengthen the edge - doublerin or non-woven fabric.

How to use dublerin

Stores offer a huge selection of materials for sewing. There are heavy, dense fabrics, knitted fabric and weightless silk. Each type requires special techniques, its own approach to sewing. There will be no problems if you decide to sew a hidden lock into a product made of thick fabric. Another thing is stretchy, loose materials. How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt in this case? A special fabric - dublerin - will help you.

This is a strip of very thin lining material with a layer of glue applied to it, which looks like small grains on one side. Before sewing on the lock, double stitching is basted along the line along which it will be attached. The lining is installed with the adhesive side to the fabric and secured with a hot iron. Edges reinforced in this way will not stretch. If the fabric is glued well, everything will be sewn neatly.

Which foot is needed for a hidden zipper?

Worried about how to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt? Just buy a special foot. Modern machines include a device that is suitable for ordinary locks; if you try, you can sew in a hidden one. It is more convenient to do this with a special foot. It has grooves at the base into which the teeth fit, opening a place for grinding. The needle is stuck close to them - so that after sewing the stitching is not visible. You can buy a metal or plastic foot, but the first one will last longer.

How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt

There are many ways to sew in a hidden lock. Experienced craftswomen do this without basting, right away. Some people only use pinning, gradually removing them as they sew, so as not to break the sewing machine needle. It is better for novice needlewomen to perform the operations sequentially, chopping and basting the lock. Over time, you will choose the appropriate technology for yourself to sew in a hidden fastener; you will do it easily and simply.

Where the lock will be sewn is up to you. This can be a side or middle seam at the back - it doesn’t matter for the execution technique. How to sew a hidden zipper into a skirt? According to technology, it is better to do this:

• fold the fabric in half where the fastener is stitched;
• make an allowance of 1.5 cm from the edge and draw a seam line;
• sweep the product along this marking;
• overcast each edge separately;
• iron the seam according to the basting;
• straighten it and iron it;
• on the wrong side of the product, attach the lock with the teeth down so that they align with the middle of the seam;
• The slider should align with the hem line of the top edge of the skirt.

Steps for sewing a hidden lock:

• pull the slider to the front side;
• pin the lock across with pins, under the teeth;
• baste to one layer of hem, making a seam in the middle;
• remove pins;
• fully open the clasp;
• stitch one side using a special foot, which will bend the edge with the teeth;
• repeat the operation on the other side, if the fabric is slippery - satin or silk - it is necessary to stitch from above each time;
• make a fastening seam on the wrong side about 1 cm at the bottom of the lock;
• sew the back seam to the end;
• make a facing for the top of the skirt;
• do the processing and hem the hem.

Features of knitted products

There are nuances on how to sew a hidden zipper into a knitted skirt quickly and without problems. The technology itself remains unchanged, but preparatory work needs to be done:

• buy a special needle for knitwear - it has a rounded end;
• select the step length on a separate piece of fabric;
• check line;
• glue the place where the lock is stitched with a non-woven or dublin gasket;
• To properly pull the fabric when sewing, place a strip of paper under it.

Hello, my dear readers of the blog “Sew with me”. If you are planning to sew a skirt or dress, you will probably have a question about how sew in a hidden zipper. If you've never done this before, don't worry, it's easy!! The main thing is to be careful and pay attention to the details that will be discussed below.

Now we will learn how how to properly sew a hidden zipper into a skirt.

As a rule, there are two hidden zippers sizes: length 19 and 50 cm.

The zipper should be 2 cm longer than the cut under it on the skirt or trousers. The excess is cut off.

Before sewing the zipper to the other side of the cut, we close it and pin it with a pin so that the points of the belt on the product (or peplum, for example) coincide.

Then we carefully sew the other side of the zipper with large oblique stitches.

You can’t just stitch with a straight stitch by hand. Such a seam will not protect the zipper from tearing off when we sew it on by machine.

So only with an oblique seam.

We check that everything matches exactly on the front side and that there is no distortion on the belt or peplum.

You will need a special concealed zipper foot. (see photo below)

You can help yourself and move the needle a little using the zig-zag function on the machine.

This will create a truly invisible hidden zipper.

We cut it after the cut mark on the skirt, leaving another 2 cm. We do the fastening by hand.

We sew the seam at the bottom of the zipper close to the zipper so that there is no hole. If it is not convenient to use a machine, we sew it by hand.

We cut off the excess length of the zipper and fasten it manually.

Iron the area with the zipper.

All! Lightning is ready!

Watch also the video on how to sew a hidden zipper:

I hope this article helped you and you are one step closer to your dream. I would be very grateful if you use the social network buttons! And see you soon on the pages of the blog “Sheisomnoy.rf”

Good afternoon, dear readers. You probably know that every woman should strive for constant development, study, try something new and useful. That is why today we will talk about how to sew a zipper into a skirt correctly, step by step.

Stages of flashing a hidden zipper

Now we will tell you about a method that will help you quietly sew a hidden zipper to a skirt. The main convenience is that it doesn’t matter at all where exactly the zipper will be located - in front, behind or on the side.

Product preparation

The selected technology requires the following steps:

1. In the place where the sharpening will be sharpened, the fabric is folded into two layers. In this case, an allowance of 1.5 cm is made from the edge and a seam line is drawn. The product must be swept, focusing on this mark.
2. Then, you need to overcast each edge separately. After this, iron the seam, straighten it and iron it thoroughly.
3. The lock is applied with the teeth down on the wrong side of the skirt. You need to make sure that the teeth line up with the middle of the seam. And the slider should coincide with the hem line of the upper cut of the product.

After this, it’s time to start sewing on a metal or iron hidden zipper step by step:

1. The slider is pulled to the front side, after which the lock is secured with pins across, directly under the teeth. This should be done carefully so that the fabric does not move.
2. The next step is to make a seam in the middle. To do this, simply baste the zipper to one layer of the hem.
3. After this, the pins are carefully removed, and the clasp is opened to the very end.
4. Using a special blind-lock foot that folds back the serrated edge, you need to sharpen one side. The same operation is performed on the other side. And if the fabric is slippery, then the lock is stitched on top.
5. A securing seam is made on the wrong side (about 1 cm down from the lock). After which the back seam is stitched to the very end, but very carefully.
6. All that remains is to do the facing of the upper part of the skirt, and at the end - to carry out processing and hem the hem.

We also suggest watching the video below. Thanks to him, you can learn how to quickly sew a hidden zipper into a side seam:

Skirt with a belt: how to sew a zipper into a skirt yourself

Have you ever sewed a skirt with a belt? If not, then be sure to try it and don’t worry about how to sweep the zipper correctly. There is nothing complicated about this if you follow simple rules. Namely:

1. At the very beginning, the blank belt is folded in half lengthwise. After this, you need to carefully iron it with an iron (you can use it through gauze), and then sharpen one side of the skirt to the top cut.
2. Using pins, be sure to secure the upper edge where the belt bends. Everything is carefully basted, but the seam where the hidden zipper will be attached is not sewn now.
3. The next step is to sew in the fastener. Don't forget to sew the back seam so that the resulting “design” holds up well.
4. Now is the time to bend the waistband over the ironed area and sew it completely.

Important. The side seam, which should cover the fastener, in this case is sewn by hand.

If you sew a hidden zipper into a skirt with a belt in this way, it will not be visible at all. In addition, this will take very little time even for a novice needlewoman. You just need to be careful and have a little patience.

Pro tip: how to sew a regular zipper

Very simple instructions that allow you to sew a zipper into a skirt without any hassle:

1. Using the usual construction method, two parts of the skirt are sewn together in the place where the zipper will be located. The seam is then unrolled and the fabric is gently ironed with a low temperature iron.
2. A zipper is applied to the seam (from the unfolded fabric). It must be fixed in a level position using regular tape or double-sided adhesive tape.
3. Using a sewing needle, the zipper is fixed on the outside of the skirt. After this, the zipper is stitched, and the tape is carefully removed from the fabric.
4. Using a seam ripper, the very first seam is carefully removed. After which the zipper is completely ready for use.

We also invite you to watch an additional video, which will talk about how to properly sew an open zipper into a sun skirt:

Sew a zipper with a lining without stitching the seam

This procedure is a little more difficult to perform than all the previous ones, but it is still possible. To do this, follow the following instructions:

1. The sides of the fastener are aligned, and then its length is marked. You need to leave 2 cm of excess zipper.
2. Then the first part of the braid is sewn to the markings on the skirt. After this, the second part of the zipper tape is sewn on.
3. Before stitching the seam near the braid, the zipper must be closed.
4. At the next stage, the skirt is connected to the prepared lining. In this case, the length of the cut for the fastener in the lining and in the skirt must match.
5. Next, the seam is carefully bored out. After this procedure, the sides of the fastener on the skirt itself and the lining should be the same length.
6. All that remains is to machine the lining to the seaming allowance for the lock and at the same time shape the top of the product in the fastener area.

At the end of the article I would like to please you with another master class, in which an experienced master will show you how to sew a zipper into a skirt (tulle):

Until we meet again, dear readers. May everything be easy for you!

It is always better to start sewing with the simplest project. A circle skirt is exactly the option that can be recommended to beginners. It suits any figure and can be made from almost any fabric. Calculations for the pattern are made based on just a few measurements. Even a novice craftswoman can sew a beautiful and fashionable item with her own hands.

There are 4 types of sun skirts:

• full sun ( regular)
• ¾ ( three quarters sun)
• half sun ( or 1/2)
• ¼ ( quarter)

This picture will help you figure it out.

Depending on the length, skirts can be divided into three groups: mini, midi, maxi.

For average height (about 170 cm):

• Mini – from 35 cm to 40 cm
• Midi – from 66 cm to 71 cm
• Maxi – from 96 cm to 102 cm

My step-by-step instructions will cover sewing a regular sun skirt ( full sun) mini size ( or midi if for a girl).

Circle Skirt Pattern

To create a pattern for such a skirt you will need only two measurements: waist circumference and length of the product. In fact, you need to cut out a circle of fabric, in which there will be another circle - a belt. The main task is to correctly calculate their radii. The pattern (more precisely, half of it) will be built on paper folded in half.

Measure your waist circumference and add at least 1.5 cm allowance for a loose fit. Often such an allowance is made already during the taking of measurements, and the waist circumference is recorded with it. This way we get the size FROM(waist circumference).

Next, we recall the geometry course and make the necessary calculations. The circumference of a circle is equal to the product of the number π and two radii ( c=2R x 3.14). Therefore, to calculate the radius of a circle, it is necessary to make the following calculations: divide the circumference (waist circumference) by 2 π (2×3.14=6.28), i.e.:

We set aside segments AA1 and AA2 equal to the calculated radius.

We construct an angle of 90 degrees, the vertex of this angle is point A. It is necessary to plot a segment on the sides of the angle equal to the radius of the circle (belt).

We use a ruler as a compass (if you doubt your accuracy, take a real one) and draw a dotted line of a circle with the same radius on the pattern canvas.

The next measure is length of the skirt itself (DU). We set aside segments A1H1 and A2H2 on the sides of the corner. Then we build a new circle. It is better to set its radius from point A (after all, inaccuracies in constructing the first circle will also be reflected on the lower edge). The radius of this circle will be equal to the sum of the segments AA1 and A1H1.

Your constructions provided half of the front pattern. We cut it out, getting a pattern for half of the skirt by folding the paper. You can mark the allowances for the top and bottom edges in advance, or apply them to the fabric when cutting.

At this stage, it is very useful to attach a paper pattern to the figure and correct possible shortcomings (and a novice master should practice by cutting out the entire skirt on paper).

Additionally, we cut out a rectangle that will become a belt. Its length will be equal to the waist circumference + seam allowances, and the width should be twice as large as desired + seam allowances.

Open the Circle Skirts

Fold the fabric in half across the warp threads. You should cut by placing the pattern with a diameter on the fold line and securing it with pins. If you did not make hem and waist seam allowances on the pattern, you can apply them directly to the fabric, setting aside the required distance from the paper.

The length of the allowances will depend on the type of seam chosen for processing. It’s better to make the allowances a little larger so that you can adjust the final details if the measurements are inaccurate.

Now you should cut out the skirt, grabbing all the fabric with scissors. As a result, you will get the required circle. We cut it along the fold line of the fabric on one side: the zipper will be sewn in at this point.

The next stage of creating a pattern is trying it on. A mannequin will help you a lot. Place the future skirt on it and let it hang. Since the skirt is cut on the bias, the warp and weft threads of the fabric may be slightly deformed.

The skirt should hang down

Once the skirt has dropped, if necessary, trim the hemline of the skirt with sharp scissors, applying a paper pattern to it.

Sewing a circle skirt

It’s better to start work by sewing a belt.

Connect the waistband and lining piece and fold the seam allowances from the two long sides of the waistband to the wrong side, securing the folds with an iron. Fold the waistband lengthwise, right side inward, and secure the fold with pins.

Machine stitch the edges on both sides and then turn the waistband right side out.

Hem the bottom of the skirt using a stitch that matches your fabric. You can, for example, process the edge of a skirt using an overlocker or fold the fabric twice.